Key Takeaways
- All-round growth in a tricky quarter: Jewellery, watches and subsidiaries delivered volume and buyer growth despite a three-week sentiment dip from overlapping one-off events; what was lost in May was recovered in June.
- Customs duty delivered a one-time \$407 Cr gain: The hike from 6% to 15% flowed through inventory sales, but management explicitly asks investors to strip it out, warning the reverse will hit when duties eventually fall.
- Studded jewellery resurgence is the core margin story: The revival that began in Q4 FY26 sustained through Q1, with record studded performance in late May and June; this mix shift is the primary lever to defend the 11% jewellery EBIT margin.
- Damas is the one open wound: The Gulf business is running at 20–30% of pre-war levels and making losses; the rest of the international portfolio is profitable at mid-single-digit EBIT, and the full portfolio is expected to be EBIT-positive for the year.
- What to watch next quarter: Whether the MTM gain of 75–80 bps reverses as flagged, how customs duty gains phase through Q2/Q3, and whether the late-July plain gold softness proves transient or the start of a trend.
Jewellery: The Core Engine
- Studded momentum is back: The resurgence that started in Q4 FY26 continued through Q1 and Akshaya Tritiya; a brief lull in May reversed in June, with the second half of May and June delivering record studded performance. Management attributed the ability to buck initial impressions to an attractive consumer offer.
- Plain gold softness emerged late: Towards end-July, some softness appeared on the plain gold side as range-bound and confusing gold price news made consumers wait; management expects them to return once price direction clarifies.
- Buyer growth normalized quickly: April and June were good periods; May dampened sentiment. The Q1 average is already a normalized base because June recovered what May lost. Studded buyer growth has been rising since Q4 last year.
- Exchange remains a growth driver: Exchange share in procurement has been creeping up since September and spiked during the three-week May disruption, then normalized. It continues to be a big driver of customer acquisition and growth.
- Gold coin growth moderating: Coin growth YoY started moderating in Q1, a trend management expects to continue. If gold prices stabilize, the coin mix could come down further.
- Competitive intensity stable: No substantial increase or easing in competitive intensity on plain gold jewellery; described as "more of the same," with regional dispersions like Gujarat remaining elevated for 2–3 years.
- Natural diamond pricing stable: More stability seen in retail pricing of both solitaires and small diamonds; the prominent narrative around lab-grown vs natural diamonds has subsided substantially, and sentiment has stabilized.
Chawla: “A few years back and a few quarters back, I have heard enough questions of people asking me, are gold prices have gone so much, how are you going to continue to grow. Now the question is if gold prices don’t go up, how will you grow? So I think we have seen buyer growth actually taper down in the last couple of years because gold prices went up dramatically. Why can’t the reverse happen?”
Margin Mechanics: Gains, Headwinds & The 11% Anchor
- Customs duty delivered \$407 Cr: The rate hike from 6% to 15% generated \$386 Cr in Tanishq/Mia/Zoya and \$21 Cr in CaratLane, realized as inventory sold through. Gains will continue into Q2 and Q3; management will qualify them each quarter so investors can strip them out.
- MTM gain of 75–80 bps will reverse: A sudden, sharp customs duty change caused market volatility and divergence between international and domestic prices. The company advanced gold procurement to secure festive demand, creating an accounting MTM gain on inventory that lifted jewellery division EBIT by 75–80 bps. This is likely to reverse over the next 2–3 quarters.
- Normalized jewellery EBIT at 10.9%: After adjusting for both the customs duty gain and the MTM gain, the normalized margin for Tanishq/Mia/Zoya stands at 10.9%. Management reiterated 11% as the centre of gravity, with plus/minus variation possible given many moving parts.
- 40 bps of GC margin erosion: Despite good studded growth and other positives, gross contribution margin eroded 40 bps versus the normalized base quarter.
- Margin drivers are H2-weighted: Product mix swinging toward more studded scale is the key focus area. Programs to enhance gross margin in a high-gold-rate regime, including lower-karatage jewellery and sourcing strategies, will start bearing fruit in H2 more than H1.
- Watches EBIT muted on revaluation base effect: Reported EBIT profitability was muted vs revenue growth because Q1 standard costing revaluation of inventory delivered far less benefit than last year's ~\$50 Cr. Normalized Q1 FY26 margin was 18.6% vs 17.8% this quarter.
Sonthalia: "We also don't want to take credit of that because at some point of time when customs duty will go down, we will have the opposite situation. So we want you to kind of all the time nullify that, and we will also do like that."
International & Subsidiaries: Damas Drag, Portfolio Profit
- Damas is the loss-maker: The core Damas business was not loss-making at acquisition. The current war situation caused footfall and ticket sizes to fall; the business is operating at 20–30% of previous levels and making losses. Recovery is contingent on the situation ending, after which improvement is expected to be rapid.
- Rest of international is profitable: The international portfolio ex-Damas is making profit at mid-single-digit EBIT margin (5–6%). The overall portfolio is expected to be EBIT-positive for the full year.
- TEAL margin lumpy by nature: Q1's higher margin was driven by a substantial amount of servicing business (refitting/retrofitting of equipment), which carries service-revenue margins. The business remains project-based with lumpy margins; normalized margin is expected to gradually gravitate toward 12% to 15–16% long-term, with FY27 potentially higher.
- CaratLane marching toward double digits: EBIT margin should inch toward ~10%, eventually stabilizing; long-term could progress toward 11% or stay around that number depending on gold price dynamics.
- Growth prioritized over margins: Both TEAL and CaratLane are on a significant growth path; management will continue to prioritize top-line growth, and margins will play out as they have to.
Chawla: “Both these subsidiaries are still on a significant growth path, okay? And the opportunity to grow is significant and substantial, and we will continue to prioritize top line growth in both of them. Therefore, margins will kind of play out the way they have to play out.”
Demand Environment & Gold Price Dynamics
- Three-week May disruption, fully recovered: Softness in consumer sentiment for about three weeks till end-May was caused by the overlap of the PM's call-out (May 10), the customs duty change (May 13), and Adhik Maas (from May 17). Weddings restarted post-Adhik Maas, and what was lost in May was gained back in June with no trickling into Q2.
- Stable gold helps, volatility hurts: Stable gold rates or marginal upward movement helps sentiment; volatile or downward-only gold prices cause consumers to wait. The late-July plain gold softness was attributed to range-bound prices and bearish news; the last 2–3 days saw upward movement.
- Zero-inflation playbook exists: If YoY gold price inflation becomes zero, the company would go all out to acquire buyers and use that to drive growth. Management believes the reverse of the last two years can happen: buyer growth tapered when gold prices rose dramatically, so it could increase if prices stabilize or decline.
- Too early to call a gold downtrend: Management cautioned it is premature to conclude gold is on a downward trajectory; if geopolitics normalize, gold prices can rise again.
- July described as "not bad": Management sees a certain positivity in the last four months.
Strategic Initiatives & Long-Term Headroom
- Cash-for-gold scheme rolled out: Available in all stores from June, offering customers the option to exchange their own gold for cash. Not seeing significant traction yet.
- Product mix reclassified: Colour stone jewellery moved from studded to gold jewellery category effective this quarter; studded now reflects diamond jewellery only. Reclassified prior-period numbers were shared for comparability.
- Golden Harvest to Rivaah Golden Advantage shift: A customer preference shift is occurring because Rivaah Golden Advantage helps in rupee cost averaging. Overall value-basis growth in redemption of both programs is progressing in line with business growth.
- Lower-karatage jewellery: Introduction of lower-karatage jewellery generally has a positive impact on margin.
- Headroom described as "huge": Growth headroom across all businesses (jewellery, eyecare, watches, fragrances, bags, sarees) is very high due to formalization tailwinds, the India growth story, middle India, multiple segments, portfolio play, and premiumization. Market share in jewellery is still single digit.
- Jewellery growth levers: Regionalization, high-value studded, retail transformation, brand differentiation, portfolio play, and core growth in both studded and gold in sub-₹50,000 and sub-₹1 lakh price points through buyer growth.
Chawla: “I believe the headroom is huge, not just for the overall industry, but certainly for us as a company because our market share is also still single digit. So for us to target a healthy double-digit growth in jewellery is inevitable.”
Guidance & Commitments
| Commitment | Specifics | Timeline |
|---|---|---|
| Jewellery EBIT margin | 11% centre of gravity; plus/minus variation possible | Full year FY27 |
| MTM gain reversal | 75–80 bps upward impact on jewellery EBIT likely to reverse | Next 2–3 quarters |
| Customs duty gain realization | Gains will continue; management will qualify each quarter | Q2 and Q3 FY27 |
| International portfolio EBIT | Overall portfolio expected to be EBIT-positive; Damas contingent on war situation | Full year FY27 |
| Jewellery value growth | Double-digit aggressive growth, consistent with Investor Day commitments | FY30 goals unchanged |
| TEAL normalized margin | Gradually gravitate toward 12% to 15–16% | Long-term; FY27 can be higher |
| CaratLane EBIT margin | Inch toward ~10%, eventually stabilizing; long-term toward 11% | Medium to long-term |
| Coin growth moderation | YoY coin growth expected to moderate from Q1 levels | Ongoing |
| Gross margin initiatives | Programs to enhance margin in high-gold-rate regime to bear fruit | H2 FY27 more than H1 |
Key Metrics
| Metric | Q1 FY27 |
|---|---|
| Consolidated revenue | Not stated, all-round growth across all businesses, brands, and subsidiaries |
| Jewellery division normalized EBIT margin (Tanishq Mia Zoya) | 10.9%, after adjusting for customs duty gain and MTM gain |
| Jewellery division reported EBIT margin (Tanishq Mia Zoya) | Not stated, but 10.9% normalized vs 11.3% normalized in Q1 FY26 (per an analyst's math) |
| Jewellery division gross margin erosion | 40 bps vs normalized base quarter |
| Consolidated customs duty gain | ₹407 cr, of which ₹386 cr in Tanishq Mia Zoya and ₹21 cr in CaratLane |
| Customs duty rate increase | From 6% to 15%, gains to be realized as inventory sells over next couple of quarters |
| MTM gain impact on jewellery division EBIT | 75 to 80 bps upward, likely to reverse in coming quarters |
| Jewellery buyer growth | 5%, when gold prices are stable |
| Jewellery like-for-like growth | More than 30% |
| Exchange share of jewellery business | Exceeds 50%, includes old gold bought elsewhere and Tanishq-bought gold |
| Watches division normalized EBIT margin | 17.8%, vs 18.6% normalized in Q1 FY26 |
| CaratLane EBIT margin | 9.6% (or 9% upwards) |
| International business run rate | ~₹6,000 cr top line |
| International portfolio EBIT margin (ex-Damas) | 5% to 6%, mid-single-digit |
| Damas business performance | Loss-making in Q1, due to war-related footfall and ticket size decline |